Las Vegan Magazine of Las Vegas

By: Mary Baldasano
IT WAS JULY - VACATION TIME!!!! Nature's fabulous splendor is best found in our national parks, and having visited the Grand Canyon, could its vast beauty be matched? Seeing the giant Sequoias had always been a dream, so we chose Yosemite-would it measure up? The park is only a few hours drive from Las Vegas, and we were determined to find out. We spent five days exploring. Day 1 - For lodging we chose the Narrow Gauge Inn (mandatory for train lovers-209-683-7720). Formerly known as the Swiss Melody Inn, the hotel once included the Sugar Pine Railroad now under separate ownership. From our arrival, staff members were professional and friendly, and showed respect for patrons and surroundings. The Inn, built in 1952 and purchased by George Cordingly in 1979, is located on Highway 41, the direct route to Yosemite from Fresno and two miles from Yosemite. The rustic setting of balconied rooms overlooking a romantic running creek and tall aromatic pines, or those with long decks and expansive views of beautiful forested mountains provide just the right mindset for visiting the park. Its restaurant serves breakfast and dinner but follows a specific schedule; check with the front desk. Day 2 - Yosemite, via Yosemite Tours bus, with stops at Glacier Point (awesome), El Capitan, Yosemite Falls and the giant Sequoias; all overwhelmingly beautiful and inspiring. Views from Glacier Point (7,214 feet) included Half Dome, many beautiful falls (Upper and Lower, Nevada, Vernal, etc), Yosemite Valley and much more. After a lunch stop in the valley, it's on to Yosemite Falls and the Big Trees. When visiting Yosemite Falls, bring a raincoat or umbrella as the water hitting the bottom creates a tremendous spray and white water (sorry, not enough to float on). The size, force, and power of Yosemite's attractions make you instantly aware of your minute standing in nature. (Special note - We do not recommend that children who suffer even mild motion sickness take this tour as these buses do considerable bouncing around, have uncertain air conditioning, and follow grueling winding roads for over 40 miles--not exactly an enjoyable visit for those with tender tummies.) Day 3 - The Sugar Pine Railroad's Sunset Limited departs after the evening barbecue, so we explored the small town of North Fork with its Native American Museum. Located 16 miles from the hotel on Road 222 (why numbers and not names?), North Fork is at the exact geographical center of California. So tiny, it would be a mere blur unless you lived there or were looking for it. Signs are limited, so of course we drove past our destination, the Sierra Mono Indian Museum, and had to (dare I say?) ask for directions. We learned that you must turn left on Road 225 just before entering town (no sign). Once there, we were amazed and impressed by all of the sacred and daily use items donated by tribal members. The exhibits are well designed to highlight food items, preparation techniques and tools, clothing, jewelry, and spiritual emblems. Also on display are well-preserved wildlife samples, to teach appreciation of nature's best. They help you appreciate, by contrast, luxuries like coffee makers and microwave ovens--you get the idea. A sign on the door offers a reward for information to help solve the robbery of one million dollars worth of artifacts from the museum last fall--it seems that nothing is sacred anymore. Our return route, via Road 426, gave us stunning views of Bass Lake (Why not call it Bass Lake Road? Just a thought.) and Yosemite, and allowed us time to relax before the much anticipated barbecue (included in the ticket price) sponsored by Max Stauffer, the railroad's owner. Originally operated as the Madera Sugar Pine Lumber Company, 1895-1921, the railroad closed when logging in Yosemite was terminated. In the 1960s, Max's parents bought the land and remaining company assets from Toulame County, California, and created the Sugar Pine Railroad. Engine #10 was the first to be purchased and restored with some of the logging cars; #15 soon followed. By the 1970s, it had become an active tourist attraction. Max's parents added the barbecue during the full moon for friends, and this quickly evolved into a catered Wednesday evening event that included entertainment such as the Sugar Pine Trio (Dave, Robin and Chuck) with selections of folk and sixties music. The railroad parts are either original or hand made by Max and his two assistants. "It's a lot of hard work and I'm hard to please," he said. Wearing striped hats and coveralls, a sign of vintage railroading, they were having way too much fun to call it work. The railroad runs three times daily, Monday-Friday and four times on weekends. Special events such as jazz concerts and melodramas are held during the season (March-October and weather permitting, in November). In addition to the train station and its wide variety of souvenirs, the Sugar Pine Trading Company Bookstore and Thornberry Museum add their own nostalgic touch. A history of the railroad written by Hank Johnston and published by Staufer Publishing is available, entitled "Thunder in the Mountains." (For more information call 209-683-7273, or write to Sugar Pine Railroad, 56001 Yosemite Highway 41, Fish Camp, California 93623). The barbecue was bountiful in flavor and quantity and was followed by a unique train ride through the cool evening mist commemorating those who hoisted ax or saw to log the area. At ride's end, Max gave a one minute mournful blow of the train's whistle in tribute to loggers past and present. (When logging operations ceased in 1921, the wail was ten minutes		long and signified the end of a way of life). Dessert awaited our return and was as delicious as the meal. For us only one thing remained--a return to the Big Trees. Day 4 - Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. The tour's limited time at this stop meant that we had to return (cost $20 per car, good for seven days), but it was worth the expense. At the trailhead is the Fallen Monarch. An 1899 picture shows an entire cavalry outfit arrayed along the length and root system of this great tree. Above ground, its roots reach 30 feet; in the ground, they reach 150 feet. Few local residents were to be seen, but we did catch a doe and some squirrels crossing the 2.1 mile trail leading to the Fallen Tunnel Tree. The most appealing feature of the grove is the fresh pine scented air, which alone is worth the drive. Our trek led us past the Columbia Tree, and the Grizzly Giant (2,700 years old; one limb is 7 feet in diameter). The tour ended with the most famous, the Fallen Tunnel Tree, that was host to millions of visitors who had driven through the arch sawed into its trunk in 1881 as part of the road's construction. The tunnel collapsed in 1969 under heavy snow. This year, a long, hard winter had delayed the blooms of many flowers like the "snow plant", normally gone by June, allowing us a rare sight in mid-July; a special treat. The trail's steady uphill grade through the woods was, for two people not exactly familiar with exercise, a true endurance test. So, upon reaching the small museum just below the summit, we thought we were going to - DIE! Oh, a sign on the restroom door read "Bear Habitat" and offered specific precautions for (people) behavior. Following its advice, we knocked. Luckily, no one was home, but possible areas for hibernation and forage were visible so we advise that you be aware of the surroundings. To add insult to injury, after treading uphill two miles, one more feat remained--climbing 12 man-made steps (who's idea were they?) to the tree. We felt we had conquered Mt. Everest rather than a mere four miles in three hours (real hikers can do it in an hour). But we made it. Our last afternoon and evening were spent recuperating naturally, but it was worth every foot. Day 5 - The next leg of our trip was not to be included here. It was family time. But on Saturday, a chance visit to downtown Merced revealed "Mercy Gulch Days" in full swing. Traditionally a celebration of harvest, it had evolved into a street fair. Booths and people filled the street for blocks; shootouts (sheriff against outlaws--some things never change), and food (a chili competition, and a seafood gumbo that is out of this world). The sounds of music from many cultures followed us for blocks. Square dancers, young men learning the art of roping, and rows of classic cars are all on hand as enjoyable pieces of Americana. If the Fresno, Merced, or Modesto areas are on your list to visit next summer, we recommend that you check the dates for this event--a truly delightful family activity. Returning home, our next stop was Genoa (Ge-no'-a), Nevada. We took Highway 88, a wonderful ride through man's and nature's glory following parts of the original Mormon-Carson Emigrant Trail of legend and film. If you have never driven this route, consider doing so. You won't regret it. Why Genoa? It is not even on the map. Well, we wanted somewhere to chill out for a couple of days. We had found this small historic town a few years earlier while visiting nearby Lake Tahoe. The site of the original Pony Express Stop and first settlement in Nevada prior to the Comstock gold rush, the fort and court house now make up a state park. We reserved a two-night stay at its new bed and breakfast, a new experience for us. The Wild Rose Inn features five rooms as unique in character as its owner, Sue Haugnes. A retired professor from Redwood City, California, Sue dreamed of owning a quiet country inn reminiscent of old England (home). From its smaller Stage Stop room with ruffled curtains and brass bed to the larger and more elegant Gables with three sleeping areas, wet bar and over-sized bath, the Wild Rose either puts you in the center of an Agatha Christy mystery or Zane Grey western. We chose the Garden Gate room with its panoramic view of valley farmlands and Sierra Mountains. The early American floral wallpaper complemented the floral designed iron bed, and the high back chairs allowed deer watching at its finest as they passed from hills to fields to feed. The real topper was waking to a cool, crisp morning air in July--a real treat for Las Vegans. Before departing, we partook of a well-balanced breakfast of choice. If we had returned by 4:00 p.m., we would have been offered English Tea (tea and crumpets and scones; very delicious). If we had wanted solitude, there was a large back patio and a front porch, both perfect getaway spots. For history buffs, the Inn's property contains gravesites from a century ago. (Sue will explain their stories.) Sue became a favorite aunt or friend to us, which made it hard to leave. But we'll be back--we like tea and crumpets. The Wild Rose Inn gives you the most for your dollar and something that's free--kindness. For more information call 702-782-5697 or write to The Wild Rose Inn, 2332 Main Street, Genoa, Nevada 89411. This was one of our most enjoyable vacations. But what about next year? Alaska? Yellowstone? Who is to say? In the meantime, we hope that you will visit our beautiful country. The Grand Canyon, Yosemite, Merced, or Genoa all measure up and hold a special place in our hearts. We hope they will in yours. Drive Safely!